Category Archives: Trowel and Error

Wet Soils – Don’t go there!

With all the rain we have been having, it’s important to remember a few things about working in wet soils.  The number one thing is, well, just don’t do it

Rain!

Rain!

When soils are wet,  they are much more readily compacted.  Soil particles get pressed together and the air gets forced out of the soil.  Compaction can cause drainage problems, run-off, erosion, and stunt plant growth.

If you must walk on wet soil, try to stick to permanent paths or strap on some of those aerating sandals.  And don’t push a heavy mower across it.  Cutting the grass when it is wet is just an invitation to fungal problems anyway.

If you have bought a lot of pretty new plants that are anxious to get to their new homes, try to hold off.  We do get moments between the rains, like today, that you will be able to plant.  That is exactly what I have been doing all day today.  That and weeding.  One good thing about all the rain is that it makes weeding MUCH easier.

To help soils that are already compacted, keep adding mulch.  We already have such a problem with soil compaction in North Texas that we certainly don’t need to add to the problem.

Oh, and one last word… turn off the sprinklers.  Your yard really doesn’t need any more right now and there is more rain on it’s way this weekend!

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More Perrennials!

St. John's Wort

St. John's Wort

Perennials are so easy to multiply!  Most can be started with a stem cutting.

Plants can either reproduce sexually (by seed) or asexually (by cutting).  With asexual reproduction, you are always going to get exactly the same plant from the cutting as the parent plant.  That doesn’t always happen with sexual production where cross-pollination can give you something very different.

It’s best to take cuttings in the spring or fall when the weather is more congenial.  Working early or late in the day or on a cloudy day is helpful also.

You need about a  3 or 4 inch piece of stem that has not flowered.  This can be a mid-section of stem as well as the tip.  Cut the stem off just below a leaf and remove the leaves from the bottom portion of the stem.  Dip the bottom of the stem in rooting hormone and then stick it into a well draining organic potting mixture (beware of the kinds that have fertilizers added – it can be too much for them while they are trying to develop roots).   Keep the soil well watered (damp, not dripping) and keep it in a well shaded area. You can test your rooting in a couple of weeks by giving the stem a gentle tug.  If there is resistance, it has rooted.

Once your cutting has a well developed root system, you can transplant it into your garden.  Be sure to introduce sun loving plants back out into the sunshine slowly, though, or they will end up with a nasty sunburn.

If you are rooting in the fall especially, don’t give up on a cutting that looks dead.  It may just be dormant.  Give it till the spring the make a comeback.  I have had roses do this even when none of my other roses went dormant at all.

Some of the plants that I have propagated by cutting include a lot of roses, coral honeysuckle, buddleia, Texas coral sage, forsythia, St. John’s Wort, Elderberry, pomegranate, Russian sage, and rosemary.  Go ahead and give it a try?  It beats spending a ton of money at the garden centers!

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Sunflower Houses!

Now is a great time to get started on this project!  We had so much fun planting ours.

Sunflower Design

Sunflower Design

This is one of the sunflowers that grew up around the sunflower house.  It was a Russian Mammoth that was on top of a stalk about 10 ft tall and the seed head (minus petals) was the size of a large platter!  I love the patterns. We had sunflower of every shape and size around our sunflower house, but we had the Mammoth at the corners and once every foot to provide the structure of the house.

Building a sunflower house is so easy.  Just dig a small trench (ours was in the shape of a square) but leave a space for a door.  Plant the sunflower seeds in the trench according to the package directions.  We also planted morning glories to grow up the sunflower stalks.  The original idea was that the morning glories would grow up the stalks and then we could tie strings across from side to side at the top to make a roof.  The morning glories never quite caught up with the sunflowers, but that’s OK.  They sure were  pretty.

Samantha's Sunflower House

This is a picture of Samantha’s Sunflower House just as it was beginning to really grow.  As the flower heads matured, it was so much fun to watch the birds try to free the seeds.  What a great summer playhouse!

For Samantha’s birthday that year, we had  a garden party and sat in her sunflower house to read the book “Sunflower Houses” by Eve Bunting. We also gave sunflower seeds as party favors!

We have not had a summer without sunflowers ever since!  Here are some more of our sunflower pictures.

Maxamillian Sunflowers

Multibloom Sunflowers

Unopened Sunflower Bud

Unopened Sunflower Bud

How high is the sun?

How high is the sun?

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Lake Fierke

Its back…

I think I spoke too soon the other day when I said we no longer have our swampy lake problem.  The difference is that the two bald cypress, Texas star hybiscus, Gulf Coast Penstemon, Louisiana Iris and Elderberry will all make quick work of draining it.  The only one that may not be terribly happy is the rose.  Sorry poor rose.

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The Three Sisters

The Three Sisters

"The Three Sisters"

“The Three Sisters” is a method of companion planting that was used by the Native Americans.  The trio consist of corn, pole beans and either squash or pumkins.  This is a great combination to grow!  We used squash and the corn we used was a strawberry popcorn.  The three sisters each give the others something they need.  The corn (the oldest sister) gives support to the beans.  The beans pull nitrogen from the air and deposit in the soil for the other two to access.  The vining beans also bind the three plants together.  The squash shades the soil and the roots with it’s large leaves creating a living mulch and providing protection.  The squash also has prickly leaves that protect the other two from thieves – like racoons.  And the food from all three provide a balanced diet with complete protiens!

To get the best results, add fish scraps or wood ash to your planting hole as an amendment to improve the soils fertility.  Plant six kernals of corn an inch deep and about 10 inches apart.  Planting them in a circle about 2 feet in diameter adds a nice dimension.  As the corn grows, mound up soil around the base until the mound is about a foot high and three feet wide.  When the corn is about 5 inches tall, plant four bean seeds spaced evenly around the corn.  About six weeks later, plant six  squash seeds evenly spaced around the perimiter of the mound

According to my 2005 Old Farmer’s Almanac, the Iroqouis indians had been planting “the three sisters” for three centuries before the European settlers ever landed.  Now you can plant them too and be a living part of history!

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Veggies!

Beets!

Beets!

I can’t wait to harvest my first tomato of the season!  The plants are looking great with plenty of buds.  The peppers are coming along too.  In fact, we have little seedlings coming up all over the place!

Here is what we have (so far):

Tomatoes:  volunteer grape tomatoes, Orange Oxheart, Old German, Beefsteak, Brandywine, Arkasas Traveler, Yellow Pear, and Husky Cherry.  I will put out more heirloom tomatoes as I can find them.

Peppers:  Anaheim, Pablano, Tam Jalepeno, Red Bell, Lilac Bell, and Green Sweet Bell.  Maybe more of those too?

Detroit Red Beets

Cantaloupe

Cucumber (burpless)

Green beens (not sure what kind… it was saved from an unmarked plant last year).

Okra (from seed saved last year)

Polk Salad (Always seems to volunteer itself in our yard)

Sugar Ann Peas (a LOT of them!)

Radish

Red potatoes

Asparagus (we finally got some this year!  Now it’s resting.)

Yellow Crook Neck Squash

Zuchinni: Black Beauty

1015 Onions

Watermelon: Sugar Baby

Strawberries (slowing down)

Apple: Arkansas Black Twig

Peaches: weeping

Blackberries (thornless)

Grapes: Red Reliance and some mystery grape that is NOT a Champanelle

Elderberry

Pomegranate

Apricot: Moorepark

Lemon: Myer

I still want to pick up an eggplant, even though I can’t get John or the kids to eat it.  They are just such pretty plants.  What else am I missing?  What will I be so terribly disappointed that I didn’t get planted this year?


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Is thirty too many?

Dream Pruning

Dream Pruning

Well, since it is mid-April and I still haven’t managed to prune all the roses, perhaps thirty is too many.  I know that, ideally, roses should be pruned around Valentines while they are dormant.  But, hey, mine don’t even go dormant!

I also know that you are not supposed to prune while the roses are in full bloom, but if I didn’t prune the Belinda’s Dream while it is in full bloom, it just might commit suicide.  Look at what I got off of it and this wasn’t even all that I took off not to mention what I left on the bush.  The blooms are so heavy that they were dragging on the ground.

I managed to get six more roses pruned yesterday and I think I only have two more to go.  And then it may be time to start over?  Maybe I should start in January next year?

If you want to know more about pruning roses, you can check here.

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“Up With Trees”

Trees shade the back patio

Trees shade the back patio

I went to high school in a suburb of Tulsa – yes, Tulsa is big enough to have several suburbs.  We still get back there a couple of times a year.  They have a non-profit organization there that has been promoting the preservation of Tulsa’s urban forests since 1976.  There are signs everywhere that say “Up With Trees.” I love that about Tulsa.

Trees are absolutely incredible.  They completely amaze me.  Did you realize that trees make “stuff” (wood) out of thin air?  All the carbon that they “breath” in becomes sugars and cellulose.  StuffFrom thin air. How is that for incredible?  How can anyone not be amazed?

I know everyone has heard about trees and their roll in fighting global warming by now.  A single acre of trees can absorb as much carbon dioxide in one year as driving a car up to 8,700 miles.  But trees can also help by providing shade resulting in reduced cooling costs in the summer.  They also provide shelter from wind to help with heating costs in the winter.

Trees also help filter our water, cool the atmosphere (by evaporative cooling – another cool tree trick!), protect aquifers and land from erosion.  What is there not to like?  Oh yeah… allergies.  My suggestion would be to stay away from cottonwoods.  Yes, they’re pretty, but your neighbors may hate you for putting one in.

Another tree to stay away from is the Bradford pear.  Yes, that is the tree that builders always seem hell bent on putting in every new yard (because they are cheap) but, in the words of Tom Hanks from “Money Pit”… “We have very weak trees.”  We actually had one that we had to have removed last year because a third of it fell off into the cul-de-sac.  We were lucky since one third was aimed at the house and the remaining third was over our cars in our driveway.  Better just not plant that one.

Here is a list of the 33 best trees for Denton County put out by the Denton County Extension office:

Pecan, Carya illinoensis (70′ x 70′); American elm, Ulmus americana (70’x 70′); Shumard red oak, Quercus shumardii (70′ x 50′);
Sycamore, Platanus occidentalis (70′ x 40′); White ash, Fraxinus americana (60′ x 50′); Bald cypress,
Taxodium distichum (60′ x 30′); Bur oak, Quercus macrocarpa (60′ x 60′); Cedar elm Ulmus crassifolia
(60′ x 40′); Water oak, Quercus nigra (60′ x 40′); American sweetgum, Liquidambar styraciflua (50′ x
30′); Chinkapin oak, Quercus muehlenbergii (50′ x 40′); Escarpment live oak, Quercus fusiformis (50′ x
50′); Osage orange, Maclura pomifera (50′ x 50′); Red mulberry, Morus rubra (50’x 50′); Eldarica Pine,
Pinus eldarica (40′ x 30′); Chinese pistache, Pistacia chinensis (40′ x 40′); Common persimmon,
Diospyros virginiana (40′ x 30′); Eastern red cedar, Juniperus virginiana (40′ x 30′); Lacebark elm,
Ulmus parvifolia (40′ x 40′); Texas ash, Fraxinus texensis (40′ x 30′); Cherry laurel, Prunus caroliniana
(30′ x 30′); Winged elm, Ulmus alata (30′ x 30′); Eastern redbud, Cercis canadensis (25′ x 25′); Crape
myrtle, Lagerstroemia indica (20′ x 15′); Eve’s necklace, Sophora affinis (20′ x 15′); Mexican plum,
Prunus mexicana (20′ x 20′); Possum haw holly, Illex decidua (20′ x 15′); Rough-leaf dogwood, Cornus
drumondii (20′ x 15′); Southern wax myrtle, Myrica cerifera (20′ x 20′); Texas redbud, Cercis
canadensis var. texensis (20′ x 20′); Yaupon holly, Illex vomitoria (20′ x 15′); Carolina buckthorn,
Rhamnus caroliniana (15′ x 10′); Mexican buckeye, Ungnadia speciosa (15′ x 10′).

Check here for more fun facts about trees. And go ahead – hug a tree!

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Texas Butterfly Gardening

What fun is gardening without butterflies? But to get an abundance of butterflies to come to your yard, you have to have the plants that they want and need – host plants and nectar plants.

Host plants are the plants that butterflies will lay their eggs on and then the hungry caterpillars will eat.  Nectar plants are just that – plants that provide nectar as food for the adult butterflies.   Some butterflies become very specific in the plants they need, especially for host plants.  Monarchs need milkweeds, the Gulf Fritillary needs passionflower, and the Hackberry Butterfly needs hackberries.

Here are some host plants that are very specific for some Texas butterflies:

Monarch Caterpillar

Monarch Caterpillar

  • Milkweed (Monarch)
  • Passionflower Vine (Gulf Fritillary)
  • Hackberry (Hackberry butterfly)
  • Sunflower (Patch Butterfly)
  • Elm, Hackberry, nettle ( Question Mark)
  • Citrus (Giant Swallowtail)

Here are some other great host and nectar plants that grow well in Texas :

  • Asters – blooms late summer to fall
  • Bee Balm (Bergamot) – blooms summer through fall
  • Butterfly Bush (Buddleia) – blooms midsummer through fall
  • Carrot – early spring or late fall
  • Clover – blooms spring to fall
  • Coreopsis – blooms summer to fall
  • Cosmos – blooms summer to fall
  • Dianthus – blooms spring to fall
  • Dill – spring to fall
  • Fennel – summer to fall
  • Hollyhocks – blooms summer
  • Impatiens – summer to fall
  • Lavender – blooms spring to fall
  • Lupine (including blue bonnets) – blooms spring
  • Marigold – summer to fall

    Monarch Chrysalis

    Monarch Chrysalis

  • Mints – spring to fall
  • Nasturtium – early spring and late fall
  • Parsley – spring to fall
  • Phlox – blooms late spring to fall
  • Purple Coneflower (Echinacea) – blooms summer to fall
  • Sage – blooms spring to fall
  • Salvia – blooms late spring to fall
  • Shasta Daisy – blooms late spring to fall
  • Thistle – blooms spring to fall
  • Yarrow – blooms late spring to fall
  • Zinnia – blooms summer to fall

Basically, almost anything with a bloom can become a nectar plant including the dreaded dandelion.

Sam with a Monarch

Sam with a Monarch

For a list of butterflies of Texas, you can try The Butterfly Site and for an even more specific list for the DFW Metroplex you can try the Dallas Lepidoptera Society’s site.  I also saw that the Texas  Discovery Gardens will be hosting a “Butterfly Gardening Workshop” on Thursday, April 30.  It costs $60 ($50 for members) but it looks like you get a lot for the cost of registration.

Other great resources are Gardens with Wings and Monarch Watch.

May the wings of the butterfly kiss the sun
And find your shoulder to light on,
To bring you luck, happiness and riches
Today, tomorrow and beyond.
~Irish Blessing

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To Dig Or Not To Dig

A friend, Julie,  asked to borrow a tiller the other day in order to till up part of her yard for a garden.  I don’t till.  I do have an antique tiller that worked quite well for my mother, but I’m too lazy (and environmentally conservative) to till.  I don’t want to hurt my earthworms, who are prized friends in my garden.

I have another friend who swears by a system called double digging.  If you want to know how to do that, you can find out here, but it is more work than I even want to think about.

Julie wrote back to me saying that she had thought about the worm aspect, but that her yard was hard clay with nothing growing in it for years.  She did some research and came back with a brilliant plan that I had not heard of before.  Her plan was to try naturally softening the top using rabbit food -alfalfa- on top of the dirt, cover with mulch such as straw, then top with a thin layer of organic substance (compost or hummus) and plant into it some native wild plants.  The reasoning was that the rabbit food would attract worms to the surface to aerate the soil. while the mulch slowly decomposed releasing the good stuff into the top layer of soil.  The plants-such as sunflowers, further aerate the oil and begin creating a symbiosis in the soil making it friendly to future planting.  I love the idea!

Now, here are five reasons not to dig..

Now THATS an earthworm

Now THAT'S an earthworm

  1. Not digging encourages the worms to do the work for you.
  2. Not digging reduces the loss of moisture (very important in Texas).
  3. Not digging protects the soil structure (think erosion)
  4. Not digging prevents weed seed from being brought to the surface to germinate
  5. Not digging is easier on the back.

And here are five reason you may want to go ahead and dig anyway…

  1. Digging breaks up heavily compacted soils and allows air back in to it.
  2. Digging kills surface weeds (although maybe not as well as suffocating them with cardboard).
  3. Digging exposes pests to predators and and temperature changes.
  4. Digging loosens things up for root vegetables to thrive.
  5. Digging is good exercise for those who want it (or are physically able).

Here are a few quick earthworm facts:

  • Worms live where there is food, moisture, oxygen and a favorable temperature. If they don’t have these things, they go somewhere else.
  • There are approximately 2,700 different kinds of earthworms.
  • In one acre of land, there can be more than a million earthworms.
  • The largest earthworm ever found was in South Africa and measured 22 feet from its nose to the tip of its tail.
  • Worms tunnel deeply in the soil and bring subsoil closer to the surface mixing it with the topsoil. Slime, a secretion of earthworms, contains nitrogen. Nitrogen is an important nutrient for plants. The sticky slime helps to hold clusters of soil particles together in formations called aggregates.
  • Baby worms are not born. They hatch from cocoons smaller than a grain of rice.
  • Worms can eat their weight each day.
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